Hello All,

[laowho]

Thanks Dave,

Pre-heating the mould is sumthin I hadn't encountered yet in my reading. Also figured on shooting BACO's pre-loads first, then my re-loads with the Missouri Bullet Co's pre-cast, then finally with my own casts. As for prepping the mould, all I've read (besides possibly bluing it) is to soot it with a candle, then pour slow enuf to prevent frosting and minimize shrinkage. Cheers, Doug

[Mike]

Doug, So, you're already a member of the Bullet Mould of the Month Club, good doin's! You can see how easy it is... And if you don't know it yet you'll soon learn that each brand of bullet moulds generally require the same brand of mould handles.
You mention getting everything except bullet lube and the "grease groove" bullets you're buying will need lube. There are several good bullet lubes out there especially made for black powder shooting such as SPG, BPC from C. Sharps Arms, DGL (damn good lube) and a fairly new kid on the block, Vigilante Bullet Lube. SPG and DGL are both available from BACO (Buffalo Arms Co.) and you are already familiar with them, a very good place to get goods and plunder. Go to C. Sharps Arms for BPC, google for their web site, and look on Facebook for Vigilante. I'm using Vigilante and liking it.
For some of your first reloads that you'll do yourself, let me recommend using bullets from that #457124 mould over just 55 grains of your OE 2F powder. That duplicates the old military carbine load and you'll enjoy shooting it. If you want to, use a .060" veggie wad over the powder then seat the bullet all the way down so all grease grooves are covered by the casing. And the .45/70 doesn't need to be fueled with 70 grains of powder every time.
The sights you mentioned sound like a good way to go.
Okay, I'll let you go for now but keep us up to date on your progress. Shoot sharp, Mike

[laowho]

Thanks Mike,

But I had already ordered the DGL last week, based on the Shiloh site recommendation.

And the load recommendation is ideal, specially as we're tryin to hook our son. He's startin off with the Win 94 and 125 gr w/ IMR 3031 starter load, and will work up to the Hornady 160 gr LeveRevolution. Then he'll be ready for the small grain/load Sharps. I had also ordered both thicknesses of BACO veggie wad, but hadn't ordered a compressor die when I bought the Lee supplies. Reckon I need that and the de-burring tool for the primer flash hole. Can't think of anything else I need. Cheers, Doug

[Mike]

Doug, Good doin's on getting some DGL lube. You hadn't mentioned that before and I'm just really eager to help you spend your $$$. It does sound like all you need now is a gun...
And about breaking in a mould, it is probably best to follow the mould makers' recommendations because you might have a steel, brass, or aluminum mould and they all have their favorite techniques.
Okay, I'll shut up for a while. Shoot sharp, Mike

[laowho]

Feel Free Mike,

And I really am so jacked to have the mould you pointed me to. Once everything arrives I'll start practicin the casts. Got the tin from BACO and reckon the proper place to start is 1:20. Oops...just remembered I gotta get the flux. Cheers, Doug

[Nuclearcricket]

Doug, I have read over the posts here and found a few things I dont agree with at all and hopefully I can suggest some changes that will or may prevent problems before they start. If you are using Iron molds, there is a good chance that you will not need to smoke your molds. Just make sure you have them good and clean and they should fill out just fine. If you do feel you want to smoke your molds DO NOT use a candle as that will deposit a waxy/oily film in your mold and it may very well be a bitch to clean out. The best thing to use to smoke a mold is a gas grill lighter or even a bic lighter as they just put off nice clean carbon and no oily film. With a smoked mold your bullets may look like they have a design on them or they may not come out nice and shiny and thats ok as long as they are fully filled out and the base is sharp. IF thats so then they should shoot well. As for a flux for your melt, there are a lot of choices out there, one that was recommended to me a long time ago by a well known mold maker is carnuba wax. You want the pure stuff preferably in flake form. Just a pinch will flux a pot and it doesn't smell bad. You should be able to find in on ebay at a reasonable price and a pound will go a long way. Another good cheap flux is powdered rosin. Sometimes you can find it in a shaker bottle at sporting goods stores or in a little bag at the bowling alley. Again it doesn't smell bad and a little will go a long way.
Best of luck
Sam

[laowho]

Thank You Nuke,

Duly noted and appreciate the flux alternatives. The candle smoke tip was sumthin I saw @ Youtube. Also seems by now that the idea of bluing is unnecessary as the comment hasn't gotten any votes. Also dunno yet what the various moulds are (alum/brass/iron), but will soon. Cheers, Doug

[Mike]

Doug, It really shouldn't make any difference but I buy my alloys already mixed, from either BACO or John Walters in Oklahoma. One reason for that is because I cast bullets from a 10 pound pot, a Lyman Big Dipper, and that's not big enough for making real good mixes. And with the small pot, you're making a mix every time you cast. And for casting flux I've never gotten anything special, just use candle wax, beeswax, or some bullet lube. A little bit of that DGL you're getting will do well. Yes, fluxing can be more important for you if you mix your own alloys. Shoot sharp, Mike

[laowho]

Thanks Mike,

Got the tin to use up four 10lb slabs of lead from an MRI machine my neighbor gave me. After this I'll certainly look into pre-alloys. But I will alloy the bunch a bar at a time before usin for casts in the melter, maybe to try different ratios and additives. Thanks for the other mould flux options too--never can have enuf home recipes. Cheers, Doug

[Mike]

Doug, Good doin's! It sounds like you're ready to hit the casting trail. Shoot sharp, Mike