PJ, C'moor vs PJ, Postell in .45 cal.

[Opencountry]

Gary,

I don't know one way or the other, it's only a guess. I'm going to do an experiment with oiling the nose of the .449" diameter nose Postell as you suggest, perhaps 15-20 rounds, and then check for leading.

Robert

[Lumpy Grits]

Use your bullet lube and check both of them.
Gary

[Opencountry]

Gary,

What is the nose diameter of your PJ C'Moor?

Robert

[Lumpy Grits]

IIRC .448".
Gary

[Opencountry]

Thanks,

When Paul made my .449" nose Postell mould he made it from measurements taken from one of Harlan Sage's bullets that came from a very worn PJ Postell mould. The mould was so old he didn't have the records in his files showing it's original dimensions. I like the bullet. It rides the .450" bore in my 45-70 nicely, and think it should do well in my 45-90 also. But still, I'm very curious whether or not the .447" nose might virtually eliminate any leading in both barrels. This is just a thought, but maybe the .449" nose is bumping up upon ignition and fitting the bore too tightly, causing slight leading. I wipe between shots and residue of Napa cutting and grinding solution is in the bore. You would think this alone would prevent any leading if the bumped-up .449" nose was coming in contact with the bore. I'm still going to perform the experiment oiling the nose before firing, as you suggested, and let you know the outcome.

Robert

[Don McDowell]

The moisture left in your bore will strip lead.

[Opencountry]

Well, that's revealing. With that in mind it's a mystery why so many people are turning from blow-tubing to wiping to control fouling. My ratio of cutting oil and distilled water is 5:1. It feels rather oily to the touch.

Thank you for this Don,
Robert

[Don McDowell]

Oil left hanging in the bore will strip lead. Kroil is really good for getting leading out of the barrel, but if you don't get all the Kroil out of the barrel, you'll lay a fresh batch in.
Wiping you either want the patches just barely damp (lots of folks use a potato ricer to squeez the juice out) or you need to follow up the wet patch with a couple of passes of a dry patch.

[Opencountry]

Yes, Don, I try and squeeze most of the liquid out of my 2" round patches before putting them in a small airtight Mason jar, and storing them in the fridge. I wipe with two patches by habit. The first patch takes out 95% or more of the fouling, the second patch comes out looking clean. I should try shooting after just one patch and see if the bore is conditioned enough for accurate shooting.

I've posted some photos here to illustrate the little leading I'm experiencing. This is after (25) shots. The cleaning patch on the left is the first pass through the bore soaked in Shiloh Creek Bore Solvent. The second is also soaked as the first. Accuracy is still good after even (50) shots. I have yet to try wiping the bullet's noses with lube (DGL) as Gary suggested I try. I'll get to that next time out.

Robert

[Kurt]

Kurt,

Reading about your throat reamer has sparked an interest because I have a 45-90 Shiloh on order right now. With this new reamer are you still able to seat the grease groove bullet in the case with all of the grooves hidden? I'd really like to know more about it if it keeps the leading down in the throat.

Robert

Yes Robert I shoot GG and PP in that chamber. It will shoot with all GG covered or set out I cant tell any accuracy change.
I took the bore scope and shot the PJ Creedmoor bullet and checked the bore after each shot fired and the lead started at the chamber end rubbed off by the 45 degree. It formed lead and paper rings with every shot fired and each following shot it smeared the lead forward.
Lets face it that 45 degree chamber end came about the time the .30-40 Krag came to life and it was needed to add more pressure holding the jacketed bullet back to get the new powder to burn more efficiently.
When the lead bullets were in use the chambers where different and the .22 rim fire still uses the lead bullet lead.
Below is a example of the two chambers.
I have two .44-90 bn's one with the standard Shiloh chamber (the top one) The bottom one is what I used for the second .44-90BN but this rifle I used a reamer I had made from a chamber cast of a original Sharps rifle that was like new but I shortened the tapered lead from it's original 3 degree to a 5 degree because I felt it might be to long but now I wish I would have used the 3 degree.
I like the original lead so much that I had orville use his 7 degree throating reamer to change the 45 in the Shiloh chamber.
I since took off the barrel with Orville's 7 degree and put a heavy 35" chambered with a reamer that is like the Hepburn used in there creedmoor rifle with a 4 degree/1.5 compound lead in the .44 100 2.6" straight chamber