Accurate Mould

[Kurt]

TNX. Mike I will look it up.

[Don McDowell]

Kurt isn't it already drilled for a receiver sight on the top right side of the action?
If not there may be a receiver sight that attaches in the scope mount holes on the top of it.

Just being fussy but those two holes for receiver sight mounting should be on the left side of the action, high and to the rear (toward the hammer).

Kurt, All Marlin firearms used Micro-groove rifling after 1956, so they didn't make any .444s with the Pope style rifling.

I don't have a .444 but I do have a .375 and that gun has made a couple of kills. Just a re-named .38/55 and, in fact, the Marlin 375s accept .38/55 ammo just fine. Shoot sharp, Mike

Yeh but if you're looking at the on side of that action those little screw holes are on the right.

[Don McDowell]

Kurt, Williams and Lyman both had at one time a receiver sight with target knobs on it. Plenty enough elevation to reach most lever gun targets and plenty enough windage to tackle even the wind at Alliance.

[Kurt]

I just looked through my odds and ends box. I have two receiver sights one is for the Mod 70
Winchester and the other is for the Mossberg US-44.

What are the ranges for the lever rifle Don?

[Mike]

Kurt isn't it already drilled for a receiver sight on the top right side of the action?
If not there may be a receiver sight that attaches in the scope mount holes on the top of it.

Just being fussy but those two holes for receiver sight mounting should be on the left side of the action, high and to the rear (toward the hammer).

Kurt, All Marlin firearms used Micro-groove rifling after 1956, so they didn't make any .444s with the Pope style rifling.

I don't have a .444 but I do have a .375 and that gun has made a couple of kills. Just a re-named .38/55 and, in fact, the Marlin 375s accept .38/55 ammo just fine. Shoot sharp, Mike

Yeh but if you're looking at the on side of that action those little screw holes are on the right.

Yes, but I was being fussy... And I admitted it. Shoot sharp, Mike

[Don McDowell]

[Kurt]

Mike.

The Marlin .444 switched to the Ballard rifling and a faster 1/22 twist around 1998 and still make it to date.

[Mike]

Kurt, Ah yes! Now I remember, I think... Didn't they do the same for the .45/70 too? I do remember back in the '50s when Marlin went to the early micro-groove rifling and that was a big disappointment to most cast bullet shooters. Since those days their micro-groove rifling has been modified at least a couple of times, going back to fewer but deeper grooves. Please tell me more about their Ballard rifling. Shoot sharp, Mike

[Kurt]

Actually it should be drilled and taped on the left side of the action when looking at it from the rear. That should be the same action as my 45-70 and I have a williams peep sight on it. My Marlin also has the micor grove barrel and I have never shot anything except jacketed through it. Since I dont' shoot it much and have picked up a couple of bags of Rem 300gr jacketed bullets, I doubt I will ever throw any cast in it.
Kurt, I didn't know the 444 had such a small thin rim, I dont think I ever even handled any of those cases. The case lube I like is the stuff Dillon sells in the pump spray bottle, and you can get the same stuff from Frankfort Arsonel from Midway. Its lanolin in an alcohol mix. Throw you cases in a box, give them a spray and shake them around a bit and your ready to go. When I switched over to this lube, I cleaned my dies with alcohol and then lubed the inside of the die and I haven't had any problems since. You still can end up with extra lube on your cases and some dents on the shoulders and walls of straight cases but you can get that with any lube if your not careful. How do you like the brass mold? If I order another mold from Accurate I might go that route. The one I got from him I like a lot but I went with the Aluminum. There is not any doubt in my mind that his molds are second to none.
Sam

Sam the .444 is a .44 Mag on steroids. I have shot the .44 mag in this rifle and it shoots it fine. a little problem working them through the action, but one in the chamber and one through the action works fine.

The problem in the beginning was getting a proper bullet for the .444. The .429 bullet does not work well in the .444. Over the years I have tried to make this rifle shoot cast bullets and I gave up on it and stuck with the jacketed. I had Corbin make a swage die so I could use a thicker jacket that would hold at 2200 fps velocity and not strip the thin pistol bullet jacket off. It is a fine shooter using that bullet.
Now Hornady and others are making a bullet .432 diameter and a lot heavier for the fast twist .444's

Sam I like the Brass moulds. This is not the first one I have used. One thing you have to watch out for is not overheating it. Don't put it on a hotplate to preheat them I have messed one up doing this.
Also it is easy to tin the brass cutting the sprue before it is set up or when you flux the alloy with out skimming off the flux and this also fluxes the brass and the tin in the alloy will tin the mould. It really don't hurt the mould block under the sprue plate, it just makes it look dirty.
You don't have to worry about rust
I just lay the mould on the rim of the pot when it's heating and start casting throwing the first few back till the wrinkles disappear.

Kurt

[Nuclearcricket]

I was not aware that the .444 used a larger bullet than the mag did. I guess its about time someone came out with a proper bullet for it. I have no experience with the caliber and only know what little I had read a long time ago. About the only thing that sticks with me is that the recoil is a bit of an attention getter. But then, you can load a marlin 45-70 up to where it gets your attention real fast also. I don't, but am sure that some do.
You don't hear much about people shooting cast in the micro grove barrels but ocaionally someone will get one working and I guess that when it works, it works very well. Its just getting to that point that takes time and effort.
I have never used a hot plate to warm up my molds, I always set them on the edge of the pot to heat up. One of these days i will get my new pot up and running, it will be interesting to see how well it works.
I am putting together a PID to work with a new Lee 20# pot. Since I am a toolmaker and not an electrician, its slow going putting the PID together as I want it a bit different than what others build, but will have complete documentation n PDF form if anyone wants when things are finished.
Sam