Bullet Molds

[Lumpy Grits]

If 12L14(leaded steel)works that well. Why doesn't any mould maker use it?
Ductile Iron is far more 'stable' for bullet mould use and will not 'walk' like 12L does when heated.

Respectfully,
Gary

[Frank Savage]

12L14 is fine in Ideal adjustable basepour, floating nosepunch configuration when looking up for right dia or shape for some oddbal or something "right on the edge", if you´re somehow underlathed. But it has to be held in circular clamp, since if done in the traditional "screw-in from the side" style, it wanders pretty much with the heat-no big matter if cold or hot rolled bar used. 0,002+ excentricity no problem, even not constant along the shank. Sometimes not, sometimes yes, depending on part of the bar used, temperature of the mold and alloy, moon phase and several other factors hard to determine. Fluxing and stirring by front left leg of a sacred roadkill does not help for consistency, as any other more scientific or shamanistic appoach.
For the final mold, cast iron or for smaller molds brass is the only solution. Don´t ask me how I know first hand.

[Don Kenna]

I realize this is an old thread, but I'm relatively new to this forum.

The prospect of being able to purchase newly-made Sharps-type reloading tools and moulds is very welcome. I collect antique reloading tools, but I do not own any marketed by the Sharps firm because of their scarcity and unjustifiable expense. I would, however, be very interested in buying replicas of such, and I am sure other members of the Antique Reloading Tool Collectors' Association (ARTCA) would be equally interested.

You might try posing the question on the organization's web site--

http://www.antiquereloadingtools.com/

Don Kenna

[Stephen Borud]

Thanks Don, I will check it out.

[Rick Mulhern]

You're fixing to turn a hobby....into work! Kiss your shooting goodbye!!

[Dave Roelle]

Of the materials commonly used for bullet molds-----fine grained cast iron stands out from the rest--stress relieve at about 1100 degrees f----------square up the blocks and machine any way you wish.

Cut in volume on an accurate saw and heat treated in bulk the base blocks aren't very expensive and ultimately stable.

No mystery to this at all, just attention to detail, will get you "true to vintage mold design" with accuracy of cavity that goes a ways beyond what could be accomplished in the 1870's

Yup Rick, hard to hold onto the fun level when profit gets involved !!!!!!

Dave

[Bob McDowell]

So stupid question, probably, but is it easier to machine to what you want, or might it be a good strategy to start with a 3D-printed bullet and step up your molds from there? Maybe plastic to silicone to clay to some adequate metal?

Or heck, maybe start with an existing antique bullet instead of printing one out, and build the first mold from that?

Just curious, really...

[powderburner]

the three d printer may be the thing , make a mould wih the right cavity and then use the mould to make the mould
now with the right media in the printer yo could turn out bullets pretty fast

[Bob McDowell]

Oh heck yeah, you could maybe print them right out. You'd have to file them down, though (unless the texture helps somehow), and the whole works would have to run hotter than normal (622 vs 221 degrees F). Not sure any type of RepRap design could withstand the radiant heat - since the joints and such are typically printed plastic.

But it WOULD be possible. Wouldn't that be a trip...?

[Bob McDowell]

Inspired to get on Google, here are some methods that people have used:

http://makezine.com/projects/guide-to-3d...d-printer/

Looks like 'Lost-PLA Casting' is the winner. You could do your own bullet mold this way, or print out and cast up something that can do multiple bullets in a go.

http://coreprintpatterns.com/lost-pla/

http://3dtopo.com/lostPLA/

And I should add, that one could probably file down/smooth off the plastic with nail polish remover before making the mold.