Time to continue load development with my .44-77.

[Kurt]

I like to keep mine close to 45%. Some of the money bullets I have in the .45 caliber that are close to 50% just don't do well for me in my 18 twist rifles when the winds get above 15 mph coming at 2 or 10 o-clock. I like my hemi center at around .130" and that shortens the ogive where I like it.
The smaller the Hemi the longer the ogive the faster the twist needed or more powder if the twist is less.
I have a 14 twist .40 I can use a 50% that has a hemi like Brents .45 prolate that shoots well but use it in the 16 twist it has problem at midrange.

[Distant Thunder]

Kurt,

I00% agree with you above statement. This an experiment based on my success with this design in .45 caliber. The target will tell the story.

That is the beauty of the modified elliptical design, the ogive can be 50% and still have enough weight forward to carry well.

[GrumpyBear]

Jim could you past a drawing of your .45 caliber version of your new bullet with dimensions like that one?

Thanks

[Distant Thunder]

I should be able to do that. I used different software back then and I would have either convert the drawing (if possible) or make a new one so it could be a while before I can get to it.

[GrumpyBear]

Sounds good Jim, thanks.

[Aviator]

Jim, what twist does your long range 45-70 have?

[Distant Thunder]

Steve,

Both my .45-70 Hepburn and my .45-90 Shiloh 1874 are 18-twist.

[Distant Thunder]

GrumpyBear,

I drew this up today from my actual bullets as they come from the mold. It's not perfect but it's really close. The hard part is capping the tip with the 1/8 radius and blending that to the ellipse. I like a fairy generous nose radius because I believe it help with the stability as the bullet drops below the speed of sound.

This mold started at 1.260" long and that was good in my 18-twist .45-90 at over 1400 fps. I shortened it to 1.435" long when I began using it in my .45-70 and the velocity dropped below 1300 fps. At 1.435" long it shoots very well from my 18-twist .45-70.

Then other thing I adjusted was the shank diameter. I think it was .443" for my .45-90 Shiloh with its .450 bore. My .45-70 Hepburn has a bore diameter of .451"+ a little. I bored the shank out so that it casts at .455" and that was just a little too big. Not all rounds would chamber with thumb pressure.

I then made a push through size die at .4513" and I size the bullets after they are patched. That results in a very uniform fit in the bore.

I made the drawing at .444" but it all depends on your rifle and paper.

Boring the shank resulted in a step where the ogive starts. I use that as my patch to line.

The only way I know to define an ellipse is by the major axis and the minor axis and I noted that on the drawing.

[GrumpyBear]

Thank you Jim, I appreciate you taking the time to do this for me.

Brian

[Kurt]

I finally got out to the range today and I took the .44-77 with the new MVA A-10 scope mounted on it.
I loaded some loads using the old 1.5 F KIK powder with 87 grains and the sage bullet. I'm saving the last of the 1.5 F Swiss for the .38-50 but after finally finding the paper at 200 yards I think I should have use the swiss and save the KIK for the match shooting LOL.
I have to lower the front block because the rifle shot 14" high with the rear base all the way down.
I cant for the life of me understand why the .44 bn gets such a bad reputation the way it shoots. Even the .44-90 bn I would not say the 77 or the 90 outshoots the other. The 90 has a big appetite for powder for the way the supply is now days.
I think I made a mistake getting the 10X A scope. It's just too much powder for off hand shooting for me. 8X is more than enough for me so I think I will see if I can trade or sell it for a 4X or maybe a 8X. The 10X for my eye damage I got last June really shows the dark spot in my center vision.