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		<title><![CDATA[Historic Shooting Forums - Reloading]]></title>
		<link>http://historicshooting.com/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Historic Shooting Forums - http://historicshooting.com]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 May 2026 05:52:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<generator>MyBB</generator>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Primers]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3411.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 19 Jan 2025 13:48:53 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=4113">JKR</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3411.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I stopped at Scheels in EauClaire on Friday. I was pleased to see large rifle primers on the shelf. I bought two bricks of Federal 210M which I haven’t seen in four years. They also had CCI both regular and BR, and Remington. The 210M’s cost &#36;109. Guess that’s the new reality. At least with BPCR a thousand primers lasts me a long time. Wish I could say the same for a case of powder!<br />
JKR]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I stopped at Scheels in EauClaire on Friday. I was pleased to see large rifle primers on the shelf. I bought two bricks of Federal 210M which I haven’t seen in four years. They also had CCI both regular and BR, and Remington. The 210M’s cost &#36;109. Guess that’s the new reality. At least with BPCR a thousand primers lasts me a long time. Wish I could say the same for a case of powder!<br />
JKR]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Swiss 3fg]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3399.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 05 Sep 2024 21:12:07 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=0">Steveu</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3399.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I have been testing some Swiss 3fg that I have in the 40-65 with greasers and it’s been working great.   <br />
My question is, have there been any issues with lots that were produced in 22,23 or 24?  The partial can that I have left I got in 2018.<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
Steve]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I have been testing some Swiss 3fg that I have in the 40-65 with greasers and it’s been working great.   <br />
My question is, have there been any issues with lots that were produced in 22,23 or 24?  The partial can that I have left I got in 2018.<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
Steve]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Long Range Load]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3393.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 20 Aug 2024 07:28:08 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=4113">JKR</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3393.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I spotted for my shooting partner’s impressive 1000 yard win at Harris this past weekend. Neal’s long range 45-70 load is no different than his everyday, do everything, load. 62 grains of 1 1/2 Swiss, Lyman 535 Postell, .060” veggie wad, and CCI LR primer. Nuthin’ fancy! <br />
His rifle is a very stock Browning BPCR. Badger barrel, 18 twist. MVA LR sight, Browning front with aperture. <br />
Shooting was done sitting from the sticks. <br />
So much can be said for breaking the perfect shot!<br />
JKR]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I spotted for my shooting partner’s impressive 1000 yard win at Harris this past weekend. Neal’s long range 45-70 load is no different than his everyday, do everything, load. 62 grains of 1 1/2 Swiss, Lyman 535 Postell, .060” veggie wad, and CCI LR primer. Nuthin’ fancy! <br />
His rifle is a very stock Browning BPCR. Badger barrel, 18 twist. MVA LR sight, Browning front with aperture. <br />
Shooting was done sitting from the sticks. <br />
So much can be said for breaking the perfect shot!<br />
JKR]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Pistol primers and breech block damage?]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3321.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Jan 2023 07:40:52 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=4113">JKR</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3321.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[My Shiloh has a definite dent around the firing pin hole. Is this caused by my testing with pistol primers a few years back, or is it normal wear? <br />
I recently came into some Federal 150’s and I’m thinking I probably shouldn’t try them in the Shiloh. I did try them in the C Sharps but they’re pierced by the firing pin. It’s looking like pistol primers are a no go in my rifles. <br />
JKR]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[My Shiloh has a definite dent around the firing pin hole. Is this caused by my testing with pistol primers a few years back, or is it normal wear? <br />
I recently came into some Federal 150’s and I’m thinking I probably shouldn’t try them in the Shiloh. I did try them in the C Sharps but they’re pierced by the firing pin. It’s looking like pistol primers are a no go in my rifles. <br />
JKR]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Winter fouling control]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3307.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 11 Nov 2022 12:45:21 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=4113">JKR</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3307.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[What are you guys using for fouling control during the cold months? My normal mix of water and cutting oil froze while I was shooting this morning. <br />
My fingers weren’t far behind!<br />
JKR]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[What are you guys using for fouling control during the cold months? My normal mix of water and cutting oil froze while I was shooting this morning. <br />
My fingers weren’t far behind!<br />
JKR]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[These tiny balls]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3293.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 25 Aug 2022 11:09:55 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=15">Kurt</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3293.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Sure do a fine job cleaning cases.<br />
Just recently I got cheap 10 liter ultrasonic to cleaner from Amazon to clean carburetors and injectors and I been using this combination also for cleaning brass. <br />
When I get home I deprime and soak the brass in some water for about an hour to soften the fouling and then put the cases in the ultrasonic for an hour with one pellet of Cascade dishwasher stuff and then run them in the tumbler for a halve hour or less with the cascade and they come pout looking newer than new <img src="http://historicshooting.com/images/smilies/smile.gif" alt="Smile" title="Smile" class="smilie smilie_1" /><br />
Just using the ultrasound gets them clean but not bright like you see them below. Those little 3mm ceramic balls polish the brass like you would using Brasso on your Military Brass Belt Buckle. <img src="http://historicshooting.com/images/smilies/smile.gif" alt="Smile" title="Smile" class="smilie smilie_1" /><br />
<br />
But in the end the loads don't shoot any better. <img src="http://historicshooting.com/images/smilies/sad.gif" alt="Sad" title="Sad" class="smilie smilie_8" /><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Sure do a fine job cleaning cases.<br />
Just recently I got cheap 10 liter ultrasonic to cleaner from Amazon to clean carburetors and injectors and I been using this combination also for cleaning brass. <br />
When I get home I deprime and soak the brass in some water for about an hour to soften the fouling and then put the cases in the ultrasonic for an hour with one pellet of Cascade dishwasher stuff and then run them in the tumbler for a halve hour or less with the cascade and they come pout looking newer than new <img src="http://historicshooting.com/images/smilies/smile.gif" alt="Smile" title="Smile" class="smilie smilie_1" /><br />
Just using the ultrasound gets them clean but not bright like you see them below. Those little 3mm ceramic balls polish the brass like you would using Brasso on your Military Brass Belt Buckle. <img src="http://historicshooting.com/images/smilies/smile.gif" alt="Smile" title="Smile" class="smilie smilie_1" /><br />
<br />
But in the end the loads don't shoot any better. <img src="http://historicshooting.com/images/smilies/sad.gif" alt="Sad" title="Sad" class="smilie smilie_8" /><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
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			<title><![CDATA[Primers]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3283.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 22 Jul 2022 12:57:58 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=4113">JKR</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3283.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I’m sure you old hands have kind kicked this around a hundred times, but I’m new to this so I’ll ask. <br />
Have any of you done actual testing to determine what primers give the lowest SD?<br />
Specifically I’m interested in the results with straight wall cases and heavy, long range loads. <br />
JKR]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I’m sure you old hands have kind kicked this around a hundred times, but I’m new to this so I’ll ask. <br />
Have any of you done actual testing to determine what primers give the lowest SD?<br />
Specifically I’m interested in the results with straight wall cases and heavy, long range loads. <br />
JKR]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Breech Seating]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3267.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 11 Jun 2022 06:44:25 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=4113">JKR</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3267.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Would someone please describe for me the proper method of breach seating as it would be done with a black powder load. <br />
What would the advantage be over the way we load a patched bullet just barely in the case? <br />
Are special tools required to seat the bullet?<br />
I assume the case needs to be loaded so that no air space exists when using a black powder load? <br />
JKR]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Would someone please describe for me the proper method of breach seating as it would be done with a black powder load. <br />
What would the advantage be over the way we load a patched bullet just barely in the case? <br />
Are special tools required to seat the bullet?<br />
I assume the case needs to be loaded so that no air space exists when using a black powder load? <br />
JKR]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Are scalpers at work??????]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3244.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 22 Apr 2022 11:21:42 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=15">Kurt</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3244.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Stopped off at the gun shop when I was in town and they had primers.<br />
&#36;239. a brick.<br />
H-380 powder in a I think it was a 8# jug &#36;389.<br />
Lots of loaded ammo on the shelfs for less then the powder and primers.<br />
I wonder where this is leading?????]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Stopped off at the gun shop when I was in town and they had primers.<br />
&#36;239. a brick.<br />
H-380 powder in a I think it was a 8# jug &#36;389.<br />
Lots of loaded ammo on the shelfs for less then the powder and primers.<br />
I wonder where this is leading?????]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[PID ??]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3224.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 16 Feb 2022 17:20:03 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=4113">JKR</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3224.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Ok guys. What’s a PID and why should I have one on my casting pot?<br />
<br />
JKR]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Ok guys. What’s a PID and why should I have one on my casting pot?<br />
<br />
JKR]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[That @#$%^ 45º transition]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3213.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 14 Jan 2022 10:19:20 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=15">Kurt</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3213.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Well here I go again,<br />
I didn't make a reamer for my new .38-50 Hepburn. It was chambered with the DZ reamer and after shooting 60 cornmeal blanks fire forming the cases, blowing the shoulders and necks out with the .30-40 Krag brass to the .38 caliber. I trimmed and reloaded for the final second shot fired with a full load of 3F of the old Goex Express powder I have left and a lead bullet. This did the final expansion of the cases fitting the chamber. <br />
I shot as many rounds as I could without fouling control because it was cold and the fingers were hurting handling wet patches so I just loaded and shot. Pushing a damp patch through when loading got through I found paper rings, no surprise with this happening because of repeated shots fired without wiping. <br />
But what I found is the paper rings will just not only damage a bullet it also can damage a case. Never seen this happen before. The bullet was a deep seated  diameter PP to see what the 45 chamber end does to the shank of a bullet.<br />
I guess it's time to get back to the drawing board and make a throated again.<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Well here I go again,<br />
I didn't make a reamer for my new .38-50 Hepburn. It was chambered with the DZ reamer and after shooting 60 cornmeal blanks fire forming the cases, blowing the shoulders and necks out with the .30-40 Krag brass to the .38 caliber. I trimmed and reloaded for the final second shot fired with a full load of 3F of the old Goex Express powder I have left and a lead bullet. This did the final expansion of the cases fitting the chamber. <br />
I shot as many rounds as I could without fouling control because it was cold and the fingers were hurting handling wet patches so I just loaded and shot. Pushing a damp patch through when loading got through I found paper rings, no surprise with this happening because of repeated shots fired without wiping. <br />
But what I found is the paper rings will just not only damage a bullet it also can damage a case. Never seen this happen before. The bullet was a deep seated  diameter PP to see what the 45 chamber end does to the shank of a bullet.<br />
I guess it's time to get back to the drawing board and make a throated again.<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
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<img src="http://historicshooting.com/images/attachtypes/image.gif" title="JPEG Image" border="0" alt=".jpeg" />
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			<title><![CDATA[forming cases]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3209.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 29 Dec 2021 18:26:35 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=15">Kurt</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3209.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I just finished loading some .30-40 Krag cases to form .38-50 Rem Hepburn cases for my new rifle I should have soon.<br />
<br />
I annealed 200, primed and loaded them with 15 grains of Unique powder and a 1/4 teaspoon of corn meal and sealed it with a lube wad to make loading easer without spilling the load in the case.<br />
<br />
This sure makes loading a Blk powder round a lot less time consuming and a lot easier. <br />
<br />
I fired one round in the .40-70 to see if I had enough powder to get the shoulder shot out with this load and it looks like a factory short .40-70 case. Perfect! Now to shoot then in the new rifle and get them trimmed and reloaded with lead and elk powder. <br />
I really don't think a second forming load will be needed from looking at cases Arnie formed in his .38-50 and the case that came out of my .40-70. This case I shot today blowing the shoulder out is the same diameter as the ..40-70 cases I been shooting in the .40-70. I expected to see way undersized case necks with the corn meal load, but it didn't happen. They are right on.<br />
<br />
Kurt]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I just finished loading some .30-40 Krag cases to form .38-50 Rem Hepburn cases for my new rifle I should have soon.<br />
<br />
I annealed 200, primed and loaded them with 15 grains of Unique powder and a 1/4 teaspoon of corn meal and sealed it with a lube wad to make loading easer without spilling the load in the case.<br />
<br />
This sure makes loading a Blk powder round a lot less time consuming and a lot easier. <br />
<br />
I fired one round in the .40-70 to see if I had enough powder to get the shoulder shot out with this load and it looks like a factory short .40-70 case. Perfect! Now to shoot then in the new rifle and get them trimmed and reloaded with lead and elk powder. <br />
I really don't think a second forming load will be needed from looking at cases Arnie formed in his .38-50 and the case that came out of my .40-70. This case I shot today blowing the shoulder out is the same diameter as the ..40-70 cases I been shooting in the .40-70. I expected to see way undersized case necks with the corn meal load, but it didn't happen. They are right on.<br />
<br />
Kurt]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Time to cast,]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3197.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 15 Nov 2021 22:36:36 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=15">Kurt</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3197.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Well it's been quiet here so I will start something to pass time.<br />
<br />
With my broken foot it's a little tough hobbling around and even tough going down the stairs into the mole den to cast or work with the mill, but I been heating the lead pot and got 700 .38 bullets cast for a rifle I don't have yet. These .38-50 DD Hepburn projectiles sure look good and I noticed that I can cast a lot more without having to add more alloy with 100 cast. <br />
I also have several hundred for the .40-65 and .44-77.<br />
Also I have several thousand patches cut for the .38 .40 and .44.<br />
I'm counting on a good season next year. <br />
<br />
I think the .38-50 Rem Hepburn will be a fun project upcoming. I have found that getting tooling for this caliber is going to be a doit your self thing. Cant get any of the die makers to make a set. Dave at CH-4-D said it might be 2 years, Lee, RCBS, Hornady and Forrester all gave a thumbs down so it's time I get a reamer made and make my own die set and wad punch as well as a push through bullet sizing die. <br />
But this will have to wait till I get the rifle and make a chamber cast.<br />
<br />
Arnie has been a big help fire forming some .30-40 Kraig cases in his chamber blowing the necks out so I can get a rough chamber diameter and I have ordered a chucking reamer and I have a bridge reamer on hand so I can make a push through bullet sizing die and I have a bunch of 1" bar stocker projects. <br />
This will be a fun ride for this old new caliber. <img src="http://historicshooting.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" alt="Big Grin" title="Big Grin" class="smilie smilie_4" /><br />
<br />
Kurt]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Well it's been quiet here so I will start something to pass time.<br />
<br />
With my broken foot it's a little tough hobbling around and even tough going down the stairs into the mole den to cast or work with the mill, but I been heating the lead pot and got 700 .38 bullets cast for a rifle I don't have yet. These .38-50 DD Hepburn projectiles sure look good and I noticed that I can cast a lot more without having to add more alloy with 100 cast. <br />
I also have several hundred for the .40-65 and .44-77.<br />
Also I have several thousand patches cut for the .38 .40 and .44.<br />
I'm counting on a good season next year. <br />
<br />
I think the .38-50 Rem Hepburn will be a fun project upcoming. I have found that getting tooling for this caliber is going to be a doit your self thing. Cant get any of the die makers to make a set. Dave at CH-4-D said it might be 2 years, Lee, RCBS, Hornady and Forrester all gave a thumbs down so it's time I get a reamer made and make my own die set and wad punch as well as a push through bullet sizing die. <br />
But this will have to wait till I get the rifle and make a chamber cast.<br />
<br />
Arnie has been a big help fire forming some .30-40 Kraig cases in his chamber blowing the necks out so I can get a rough chamber diameter and I have ordered a chucking reamer and I have a bridge reamer on hand so I can make a push through bullet sizing die and I have a bunch of 1" bar stocker projects. <br />
This will be a fun ride for this old new caliber. <img src="http://historicshooting.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" alt="Big Grin" title="Big Grin" class="smilie smilie_4" /><br />
<br />
Kurt]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Rocky Mountain Brass]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3070.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 08 Nov 2020 10:47:53 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=147">H-Marlin</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3070.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I am at a gun show in Mitchell, NE.  The guy across from me has two 20 round boxes of Rocky Mountain 45-70 brass and was wondering what they are worth.  Any one know?  Any interest in the brass? He has pretty good prices on most of his stuff.  Need to know today (Sunday).]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I am at a gun show in Mitchell, NE.  The guy across from me has two 20 round boxes of Rocky Mountain 45-70 brass and was wondering what they are worth.  Any one know?  Any interest in the brass? He has pretty good prices on most of his stuff.  Need to know today (Sunday).]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[It's been quiet here]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3068.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 29 Oct 2020 18:49:00 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=15">Kurt</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3068.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[So I will make a little chatter <img src="http://historicshooting.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" alt="Big Grin" title="Big Grin" class="smilie smilie_4" /><br />
I been spending time learning how to use my new mill so I had a BA mould I ordered undersized at .428 to shoot dirty with in my .44-77. It's the BA Jim-428/490. With all the latest interest in Arnies DDEPP bullet designs I thought , well it is a good time to work on moulds. <br />
I put the boring bar chuck in the mill and opened the base to .444" this added 6 gr of weight to the bullet and it's a snug fit for the fired .44-77 Farmers fired vase but it's perfect. <br />
I put the scope back on the .44-77 Farmer with the 17 ROT and I got the scope zeroed and took 10 shots with the bullet I modified. And I think it will work.<br />
I used a unsized fired case primed with a Fed GM match primer.<br />
78 gr of the new lot of 1.5 Swiss.<br />
The bullet is the modified Jim 428/490<br />
This bullet gained 6 gr cutting that base.<br />
<br />
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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[So I will make a little chatter <img src="http://historicshooting.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" alt="Big Grin" title="Big Grin" class="smilie smilie_4" /><br />
I been spending time learning how to use my new mill so I had a BA mould I ordered undersized at .428 to shoot dirty with in my .44-77. It's the BA Jim-428/490. With all the latest interest in Arnies DDEPP bullet designs I thought , well it is a good time to work on moulds. <br />
I put the boring bar chuck in the mill and opened the base to .444" this added 6 gr of weight to the bullet and it's a snug fit for the fired .44-77 Farmers fired vase but it's perfect. <br />
I put the scope back on the .44-77 Farmer with the 17 ROT and I got the scope zeroed and took 10 shots with the bullet I modified. And I think it will work.<br />
I used a unsized fired case primed with a Fed GM match primer.<br />
78 gr of the new lot of 1.5 Swiss.<br />
The bullet is the modified Jim 428/490<br />
This bullet gained 6 gr cutting that base.<br />
<br />
 <!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><!-- start: attachment_icon -->
<img src="http://historicshooting.com/images/attachtypes/image.gif" title="JPEG Image" border="0" alt=".jpeg" />
<!-- end: attachment_icon -->&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=1894" target="_blank" title="">IMG_3740.jpeg</a> (Size: 115.49 KB / Downloads: 28)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment --><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><!-- start: attachment_icon -->
<img src="http://historicshooting.com/images/attachtypes/image.gif" title="JPEG Image" border="0" alt=".jpeg" />
<!-- end: attachment_icon -->&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=1895" target="_blank" title="">IMG_2289.jpeg</a> (Size: 319.32 KB / Downloads: 25)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment -->]]></content:encoded>
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