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		<title><![CDATA[Historic Shooting Forums - Single shot centerfire]]></title>
		<link>http://historicshooting.com/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Historic Shooting Forums - http://historicshooting.com]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 19 Jun 2026 06:16:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<generator>MyBB</generator>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[.38-50 #2]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3403.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 15 Oct 2024 22:02:08 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=15">Kurt</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3403.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[It's been quiet on these pages so I will make some noise <img src="http://historicshooting.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" alt="Big Grin" title="Big Grin" class="smilie smilie_4" /><br />
<br />
I junked the barrel of the new problem child CPA .38-50 that just did not want to make me happy so I ordered a GM .375 honed and air gauged barrel and got it mounted.<br />
<br />
I formed new brass for it with a different head stamp because this chamber I had Manson make another reamer that is different than what the .38-50 Hepburn has so I don't have to worry about getting the brass mixed. <br />
Well After getting the .30-40 Krag necks blown out and and fired the second time and trimming it long for the third firing so they dont come out too short when they match the chamber with the third forming proses. <br />
I set up the target at 200 and shot. When I went down to get the target and seen a shotgun pattern on the paper I wish I would have left the other barrel on <img src="http://historicshooting.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" alt="Big Grin" title="Big Grin" class="smilie smilie_4" /> The loads were just old powders 1.5, 2 and 3F mixed and odd and end left over bullets not using my good OE and Swiss powder and match primers for the forming stage.<br />
Well I cleaned the brass, resized the cases and annealed them again and got out the good primers and powder and loaded some that worked good in the Hepburn and shot two groups again and they put a smile on my face when I saw them.  I think this rifle will now shoot I hope as well as the Hep does.<br />
I sure like these little .38-50's<br />
<br />
Kurt<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[It's been quiet on these pages so I will make some noise <img src="http://historicshooting.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" alt="Big Grin" title="Big Grin" class="smilie smilie_4" /><br />
<br />
I junked the barrel of the new problem child CPA .38-50 that just did not want to make me happy so I ordered a GM .375 honed and air gauged barrel and got it mounted.<br />
<br />
I formed new brass for it with a different head stamp because this chamber I had Manson make another reamer that is different than what the .38-50 Hepburn has so I don't have to worry about getting the brass mixed. <br />
Well After getting the .30-40 Krag necks blown out and and fired the second time and trimming it long for the third firing so they dont come out too short when they match the chamber with the third forming proses. <br />
I set up the target at 200 and shot. When I went down to get the target and seen a shotgun pattern on the paper I wish I would have left the other barrel on <img src="http://historicshooting.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" alt="Big Grin" title="Big Grin" class="smilie smilie_4" /> The loads were just old powders 1.5, 2 and 3F mixed and odd and end left over bullets not using my good OE and Swiss powder and match primers for the forming stage.<br />
Well I cleaned the brass, resized the cases and annealed them again and got out the good primers and powder and loaded some that worked good in the Hepburn and shot two groups again and they put a smile on my face when I saw them.  I think this rifle will now shoot I hope as well as the Hep does.<br />
I sure like these little .38-50's<br />
<br />
Kurt<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
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			<title><![CDATA[Badger Barrels/Miroku rifles]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3401.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 01 Oct 2024 17:33:21 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=4113">JKR</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3401.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Did all the BPCR Miroku rifles made for Browning and later for Winchester have Badger barrels? <br />
I have a 34” 45-90 barrel from a Miroku/Winchester BPCR. <br />
JKR]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Did all the BPCR Miroku rifles made for Browning and later for Winchester have Badger barrels? <br />
I have a 34” 45-90 barrel from a Miroku/Winchester BPCR. <br />
JKR]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[.38-50 #2]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3345.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 29 May 2023 19:48:03 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=15">Kurt</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3345.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Well I finally got started on my new CPA .38-50 that I picked up last winter. <br />
I got the DZ .38-50 #3 Hepburn about as good as I can shoot it so now it's time for the CPA .38-50<br />
For this rifle I got enough .30-40 Krag shells from Graf last winter when it was still in stock so I keep the Winchester Head stamp for the Hepburn and these BCC case head stamp for the CPA so I wont get them mixed. I have 500 Winchester cases for the Hep and I just blew out the necks with 300 cases of the BCC brass with a load of 38 HP powder and a load of COW. It did a fine job expanding the necks to the .400" OD the chamber is. <br />
<br />
For this rifle I provided my reamer that has the original type transition instead of the now days 45º use. I much prefer the funnel type of the old days. I think they are better for the lead and PP bullets. I have several different calibers with those transitions and all shoot very well.<br />
The 5 cases on the left I just fired in the new CPA and the 5 on the right has the 45º transition I shot in the Hepburn.<br />
<br />
Today I just wanted to zero the scope and I loaded sone cases with two different DDPPE bullets a 371-345 DDEPP and a 371-359 DDEPP.<br />
<br />
I just shot at 100 yards to get the scope centered and taking the first full load to finish expanding the shell to fit the chamber. <br />
I just used some very old Schuetzen 2F powder for this job and mixed primers, nothing special for the loads. IO will say that this rifle shows like it might shoot pretty good when I get the brass fully formed and a load worked up. Those are all 5 shots at 100 yds the center paster was shot with the 371-459 bullets as well as the top that I made an elevation change after the second shot. <br />
<br />
I think I will take both .38's to the Quigley for some 800 yard test loads. I don't get a chance to shoot long around here.<br />
<br />
Kurt<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Well I finally got started on my new CPA .38-50 that I picked up last winter. <br />
I got the DZ .38-50 #3 Hepburn about as good as I can shoot it so now it's time for the CPA .38-50<br />
For this rifle I got enough .30-40 Krag shells from Graf last winter when it was still in stock so I keep the Winchester Head stamp for the Hepburn and these BCC case head stamp for the CPA so I wont get them mixed. I have 500 Winchester cases for the Hep and I just blew out the necks with 300 cases of the BCC brass with a load of 38 HP powder and a load of COW. It did a fine job expanding the necks to the .400" OD the chamber is. <br />
<br />
For this rifle I provided my reamer that has the original type transition instead of the now days 45º use. I much prefer the funnel type of the old days. I think they are better for the lead and PP bullets. I have several different calibers with those transitions and all shoot very well.<br />
The 5 cases on the left I just fired in the new CPA and the 5 on the right has the 45º transition I shot in the Hepburn.<br />
<br />
Today I just wanted to zero the scope and I loaded sone cases with two different DDPPE bullets a 371-345 DDEPP and a 371-359 DDEPP.<br />
<br />
I just shot at 100 yards to get the scope centered and taking the first full load to finish expanding the shell to fit the chamber. <br />
I just used some very old Schuetzen 2F powder for this job and mixed primers, nothing special for the loads. IO will say that this rifle shows like it might shoot pretty good when I get the brass fully formed and a load worked up. Those are all 5 shots at 100 yds the center paster was shot with the 371-459 bullets as well as the top that I made an elevation change after the second shot. <br />
<br />
I think I will take both .38's to the Quigley for some 800 yard test loads. I don't get a chance to shoot long around here.<br />
<br />
Kurt<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
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<img src="http://historicshooting.com/images/attachtypes/image.gif" title="JPEG Image" border="0" alt=".jpeg" />
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<img src="http://historicshooting.com/images/attachtypes/image.gif" title="JPEG Image" border="0" alt=".jpeg" />
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			<title><![CDATA[Best tap for scope block screws]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3331.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 26 Mar 2023 15:56:29 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=0">Steveu</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3331.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I’m planning on getting my Shiloh barrel d&amp;t’d for a scope.  I have a machinist that is going to do it , but I have to supply the 6-48 tap and drill.  For those of you that have done this, is there any particular brand or type I should buy?<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
Steve]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I’m planning on getting my Shiloh barrel d&amp;t’d for a scope.  I have a machinist that is going to do it , but I have to supply the 6-48 tap and drill.  For those of you that have done this, is there any particular brand or type I should buy?<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
Steve]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[MVA 3000 Scope]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3309.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 26 Nov 2022 18:37:40 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=4111">DirtySteve</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3309.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I just got an MVA 3000 scope 17" spacing on the blocks, on my C Sharps 45-90. I am working on getting sight settings now. Any useful information available here to help me out?<br />
<br />
There is a learning curve here and I can some times be a bit slow on the up take if you know what I mean..<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
Steve]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I just got an MVA 3000 scope 17" spacing on the blocks, on my C Sharps 45-90. I am working on getting sight settings now. Any useful information available here to help me out?<br />
<br />
There is a learning curve here and I can some times be a bit slow on the up take if you know what I mean..<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
Steve]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[40-70SS and PP loads]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3306.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 15 Oct 2022 08:27:17 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=1738">Kevin Alexander</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3306.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I recently acquired a “gunsmiths project” rifle and just dropped it off at a my local gunsmith for the winter to have the wood rotted and finished. It’s a Meacham Highwall action fitted to a octagon Badger Barrel chambered in 40-70SS with a 1-16 twist .401 bore diameter and .4085 groove diameter barrel. I only shoot paper patch loads through all my single shots now and I thought that I needed to try to make the switch to a 40 caliber in the BPCR silhouette game next year. Anyone here have any good starting points for loads for this rifle. Components I have is new Hornady 405 Winchester brass, a case of Swiss 1 1/2 and a case of Swiss 1 powders. I will be putting an order in for more supplies from BACO in the near future. All help would be appreciated, I’ve tried this caliber in the past with not much success but I’m older and wiser now, so hopefully I can make it work. <br />
I do not have a bullet mould yet for this, but I will probably order a minimum of 2 from BACO. <br />
Thanks in advance,<br />
KA]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I recently acquired a “gunsmiths project” rifle and just dropped it off at a my local gunsmith for the winter to have the wood rotted and finished. It’s a Meacham Highwall action fitted to a octagon Badger Barrel chambered in 40-70SS with a 1-16 twist .401 bore diameter and .4085 groove diameter barrel. I only shoot paper patch loads through all my single shots now and I thought that I needed to try to make the switch to a 40 caliber in the BPCR silhouette game next year. Anyone here have any good starting points for loads for this rifle. Components I have is new Hornady 405 Winchester brass, a case of Swiss 1 1/2 and a case of Swiss 1 powders. I will be putting an order in for more supplies from BACO in the near future. All help would be appreciated, I’ve tried this caliber in the past with not much success but I’m older and wiser now, so hopefully I can make it work. <br />
I do not have a bullet mould yet for this, but I will probably order a minimum of 2 from BACO. <br />
Thanks in advance,<br />
KA]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Bill Bagwell .40-70 Straight]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3300.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 20 Sep 2022 20:55:06 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=1775">pacecars</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3300.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Picked up the Shiloh Sharps .40-70 Straight today that I bought from Bill’s wife. It is a beautiful gun and while I never met Bill in person he spent a lot of time talking to me on the phone and helping me with my learning curve when I first started with BPCR. He saved me a lot of money and aggravation. I hate that I never got out his way to take up his invitation to come shoot at his house. I considered him a friend and am grateful to be able to own one of his rifles. These are pics that Sidra sent me when I bought it<br />
<br />
<a href="https://postimg.cc/vgGkzDvG" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/zBhNqgbH/02E3A735-A436-448E-88D9-06D3B70DA546.jpg" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: 02E3A735-A436-448E-88D9-06D3B70DA546.jpg]" class="mycode_img" /></a><br />
<a href="https://postimg.cc/QKtz2PPP" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/zvS1gYkJ/6EC60996-1E01-45DA-A0F4-B32470E3DA8D.jpg" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: 6EC60996-1E01-45DA-A0F4-B32470E3DA8D.jpg]" class="mycode_img" /></a><br />
<a href="https://postimg.cc/8sPxfJ5H" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/WpMVK0cQ/C3307C60-D677-485C-B86C-D70FED8924B6.jpg" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: C3307C60-D677-485C-B86C-D70FED8924B6.jpg]" class="mycode_img" /></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Picked up the Shiloh Sharps .40-70 Straight today that I bought from Bill’s wife. It is a beautiful gun and while I never met Bill in person he spent a lot of time talking to me on the phone and helping me with my learning curve when I first started with BPCR. He saved me a lot of money and aggravation. I hate that I never got out his way to take up his invitation to come shoot at his house. I considered him a friend and am grateful to be able to own one of his rifles. These are pics that Sidra sent me when I bought it<br />
<br />
<a href="https://postimg.cc/vgGkzDvG" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/zBhNqgbH/02E3A735-A436-448E-88D9-06D3B70DA546.jpg" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: 02E3A735-A436-448E-88D9-06D3B70DA546.jpg]" class="mycode_img" /></a><br />
<a href="https://postimg.cc/QKtz2PPP" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/zvS1gYkJ/6EC60996-1E01-45DA-A0F4-B32470E3DA8D.jpg" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: 6EC60996-1E01-45DA-A0F4-B32470E3DA8D.jpg]" class="mycode_img" /></a><br />
<a href="https://postimg.cc/8sPxfJ5H" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/WpMVK0cQ/C3307C60-D677-485C-B86C-D70FED8924B6.jpg" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: C3307C60-D677-485C-B86C-D70FED8924B6.jpg]" class="mycode_img" /></a>]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Shooting Duplex Loads With DDPP Bullets]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3291.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 11 Aug 2022 09:34:01 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=4260">Pilgrim</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3291.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Do you find it necessary to wipe the bore when shooting duplex loads with DDPP elliptical bullets?  To be specific, the load I am trying is 6.5 grains of Reloader 7 and 70.5 grains of Swiss 1 1/2 with a paper patched BACO Jim 453546E bullet cast with the formula of 17:1 lead and lead free solder.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Do you find it necessary to wipe the bore when shooting duplex loads with DDPP elliptical bullets?  To be specific, the load I am trying is 6.5 grains of Reloader 7 and 70.5 grains of Swiss 1 1/2 with a paper patched BACO Jim 453546E bullet cast with the formula of 17:1 lead and lead free solder.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Sight paint]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3287.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 02 Aug 2022 08:58:24 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=0">Steveu</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3287.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a Buffington sight I want to fill in the markings to make them easier to see.  I used to use a white crayon on my service rifles, but I would like something a little more permanent.  <br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
Steve]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I have a Buffington sight I want to fill in the markings to make them easier to see.  I used to use a white crayon on my service rifles, but I would like something a little more permanent.  <br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
Steve]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[.38 cal energy]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3271.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 27 Jun 2022 08:33:10 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=0">Steveu</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3271.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[all,<br />
With the increasing popularity of .38 cals for BPCR, what is the minimum energy needed to reliably knock down the rams ?<br />
<br />
Cheers, Steve]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[all,<br />
With the increasing popularity of .38 cals for BPCR, what is the minimum energy needed to reliably knock down the rams ?<br />
<br />
Cheers, Steve]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[.40-50 Hepburn]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3270.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 Jun 2022 17:33:31 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=15">Kurt</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3270.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a friend that is cleaning out some of his collections and he has an original .40-50 Hepburn that is very clean and clean bore and it also has two butt stocks one shorter and the other with a Swiss hooked butt plate.<br />
<br />
I know nothing about a .40-50 I have seen this rifle at the range when we were shooting, but I don't remember much about it. I know it has a slow twist because he was shooting light cast bullets and I asked about it. <br />
<br />
What are your thoughts about the .40-50? <br />
<br />
Kurt]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I have a friend that is cleaning out some of his collections and he has an original .40-50 Hepburn that is very clean and clean bore and it also has two butt stocks one shorter and the other with a Swiss hooked butt plate.<br />
<br />
I know nothing about a .40-50 I have seen this rifle at the range when we were shooting, but I don't remember much about it. I know it has a slow twist because he was shooting light cast bullets and I asked about it. <br />
<br />
What are your thoughts about the .40-50? <br />
<br />
Kurt]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Trapdoor front sight]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3257.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 May 2022 08:55:04 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=0">Steveu</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3257.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I am looking for a wider front sight blade for my 1888 TD.  I have read that at some time in the past there were some guys making wider blades, but I cannot find a current source.  I have a .052" now but would like to have something around .075" wide and the standard height.<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
Steve]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I am looking for a wider front sight blade for my 1888 TD.  I have read that at some time in the past there were some guys making wider blades, but I cannot find a current source.  I have a .052" now but would like to have something around .075" wide and the standard height.<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
Steve]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[32-20 with BP, part 2]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3250.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 03 May 2022 15:19:15 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=2382">martinibelgian</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3250.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[The 32-20 thing all started with acquiring a cheap and cheerful rifle with a rechambered .308 1:15 twist Schultz &amp; Larsen barrel, which I shot for some time with smokeless before trying black.  <br />
<br />
Unortunately, the barrel some time afterwards became toast, probably a combination of remaining copper fouling and BP.  Still, it had served to prove the concept would work.<br />
<br />
So a new barrel was needed, a custom chamber reamer designed and the new barrel contoured and fitted to the action.<br />
<br />
1st thing that bbecame apparent was that the new combination was a lot more sensitive to fouling than the old barrel. This meant a lengthy search to find a reliable load and especially cleaning routine that would yield accuracy.  The 1st tries , accuracy was a bit of an on/off thing:  the same load would perform well one day, and lousy the next day...<br />
<br />
As already mentioned, the barrel is a 1:12 twist Lothar Walther, .308 groove.  Chamber is a tight 32-20 shamber with the classic 45 degree case transition, followed by a .100 freebore of .309 diameter, followed by a 3° taper into the rifling.<br />
<br />
A lot of experimenting has taught me that this rifle likes to be shot both clean and dry:  The bore needs to be both spotless and dry for accuracy to happen, which is a bit of a departure of the larger BP calibres:  a typical .45 will lead when shot clean and dry.<br />
<br />
Load development has for the moment settled on the following:  <br />
- 151gr 30/1 bullet of .308 diameter <br />
- 18.4 grs of 1 1/2 Fg Swiss (yes, 1 1/2Fg works definitely best, even fg shoots quite well), card overpowder wad.  Yup, definitely thrifty.<br />
<br />
The  174gr Pope bullet is shot with 17.9 grs of powder, and is seated separately with a plugged case, the charged cas being loaded after seating the bullet.  It is nor really breechseated, however: the bullet still sticks in he loaded case.  <br />
I stopped the experiments with this bullet for the moment, in order to concentrate on the 151gr RN fixed cartridge, but it does show a lot of promise.<br />
<br />
Wiping routine as follows:  2 moist ( as in squeezed in a potato ricer) patches, the 1st with a wet VFG felt in front, followed by 2 dry absorbent patches, which leaves the bore both clean and dry.<br />
<br />
All of this is a bit of an issue when shooting a Martini action, it definitely requires a flexible wiping rod to push that stuff from the chamber end through the barrel and out of the muzzle.<br />
<br />
Result is  - after some serious trial and error -  a light-recoiling rifle that is becoming reliably accurate, with practical accuracy surpassing that of my .45's at short range, which I would think is mainly due to a smaller, better-balanced an lighter recoiling rifle.<br />
<br />
Dont forget that competitions here are mostly prone, with sling - so no crosssticks, just a 2-point sling and the elbows.<br />
<br />
I'm already thinking about some improvements too:  IMO the main reason for the fouling sensitivity is the parallel .309 freebore section, this after a comparison with the chamber of the take-off barrel - that one would even shoot well blowtubing only. Main difference is a tapered freebore, not a parallel one.<br />
<br />
Still, accuracy now is definitely X-ring, or as good as the shooter can hold.  However, consisent and thorough cleaning between shots is a must, or she'll start to throw fliers.<br />
No issues with leading, except that the barrel needed some time to smooth out, it definitely is smoother after a year's shooting.<br />
<br />
The failure, however, is with PP:  The rifle just won't shoot with groove-dia. PP bullets, which are an exact replica of the GG bullet - except a .300 patched up to .308.  After lots of trying, I finally abandoned it as hopeless.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[The 32-20 thing all started with acquiring a cheap and cheerful rifle with a rechambered .308 1:15 twist Schultz &amp; Larsen barrel, which I shot for some time with smokeless before trying black.  <br />
<br />
Unortunately, the barrel some time afterwards became toast, probably a combination of remaining copper fouling and BP.  Still, it had served to prove the concept would work.<br />
<br />
So a new barrel was needed, a custom chamber reamer designed and the new barrel contoured and fitted to the action.<br />
<br />
1st thing that bbecame apparent was that the new combination was a lot more sensitive to fouling than the old barrel. This meant a lengthy search to find a reliable load and especially cleaning routine that would yield accuracy.  The 1st tries , accuracy was a bit of an on/off thing:  the same load would perform well one day, and lousy the next day...<br />
<br />
As already mentioned, the barrel is a 1:12 twist Lothar Walther, .308 groove.  Chamber is a tight 32-20 shamber with the classic 45 degree case transition, followed by a .100 freebore of .309 diameter, followed by a 3° taper into the rifling.<br />
<br />
A lot of experimenting has taught me that this rifle likes to be shot both clean and dry:  The bore needs to be both spotless and dry for accuracy to happen, which is a bit of a departure of the larger BP calibres:  a typical .45 will lead when shot clean and dry.<br />
<br />
Load development has for the moment settled on the following:  <br />
- 151gr 30/1 bullet of .308 diameter <br />
- 18.4 grs of 1 1/2 Fg Swiss (yes, 1 1/2Fg works definitely best, even fg shoots quite well), card overpowder wad.  Yup, definitely thrifty.<br />
<br />
The  174gr Pope bullet is shot with 17.9 grs of powder, and is seated separately with a plugged case, the charged cas being loaded after seating the bullet.  It is nor really breechseated, however: the bullet still sticks in he loaded case.  <br />
I stopped the experiments with this bullet for the moment, in order to concentrate on the 151gr RN fixed cartridge, but it does show a lot of promise.<br />
<br />
Wiping routine as follows:  2 moist ( as in squeezed in a potato ricer) patches, the 1st with a wet VFG felt in front, followed by 2 dry absorbent patches, which leaves the bore both clean and dry.<br />
<br />
All of this is a bit of an issue when shooting a Martini action, it definitely requires a flexible wiping rod to push that stuff from the chamber end through the barrel and out of the muzzle.<br />
<br />
Result is  - after some serious trial and error -  a light-recoiling rifle that is becoming reliably accurate, with practical accuracy surpassing that of my .45's at short range, which I would think is mainly due to a smaller, better-balanced an lighter recoiling rifle.<br />
<br />
Dont forget that competitions here are mostly prone, with sling - so no crosssticks, just a 2-point sling and the elbows.<br />
<br />
I'm already thinking about some improvements too:  IMO the main reason for the fouling sensitivity is the parallel .309 freebore section, this after a comparison with the chamber of the take-off barrel - that one would even shoot well blowtubing only. Main difference is a tapered freebore, not a parallel one.<br />
<br />
Still, accuracy now is definitely X-ring, or as good as the shooter can hold.  However, consisent and thorough cleaning between shots is a must, or she'll start to throw fliers.<br />
No issues with leading, except that the barrel needed some time to smooth out, it definitely is smoother after a year's shooting.<br />
<br />
The failure, however, is with PP:  The rifle just won't shoot with groove-dia. PP bullets, which are an exact replica of the GG bullet - except a .300 patched up to .308.  After lots of trying, I finally abandoned it as hopeless.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[32-20 with BP:  some experiences and conclusions - part 1]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3249.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 03 May 2022 01:44:12 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=2382">martinibelgian</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3249.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[It's been a while that I have and shoot a 32-20 match rifle for short-range competition. The idea started out with a philosophy of 'just enough gun' for the purpose while staying in the general framework of BP shooting.  After all, here where I live, most competitions are short-range, due to the limited availability of decent shooting ranges.<br />
That, and also the availability of the small BSA Martini actions, which are restricted in cartridge size due to barrel tenon size and action length.  However, this is a pretty good action, very solid, with a fast lock time and a pretty decent direct trigger.  And I am a Martini fan, of course!<br />
Also, as the base rifle is a .22 match rifle (BSA 12/15), it allows one to have a cheap practice rifle with almost identical ergonomics for cheap and cheerful practice.<br />
<br />
Why 32-20?  Well, it is of course a period-correct cartridge with brass still (more or less) available, and it allows one to use a good selection of both barrels  and moulds.  Yes indeed, if one uses a standard .308 barrel, which is what I did.  Also, it doesn't use gobs of powder and lead (allowing more practice for the same monay), doesn't kick you as hard in a lighter, smaller, better-balanced rifle.<br />
<br />
However, not everything is perfect for match use :  Standard barrel twist for the 32-20 doesn't allow the use of heavy-for-calibre bullets, which IMO is one of the essentials for both a clean burn and good accuracy.  Which is why I went with a 1:12 twist Lothar Walther barrel.  And I did design my own mould, a 151gr RN bullet.<br />
Again, the goal was not to maximize muzzle velocity, but best accuracy at short to mid range.  To be honest, I haven't yet chrono'd my ammo yet, but I'm guesstimating it to be in a .22LR velocity range.  And with the 174gr Pope bullet semi-breechseated, it could well be subsonic.<br />
<br />
Of course, the smaller bore size also has some potential downsides:  fouling being the main element here.  Also, going for a moderate velocity round (subsonic with the heavier bullets) would also be a potential issue, but as its intended use was short range target work, I was hoping this would prove the concept for the distance<br />
<br />
This was the general idea behind the development of a single shot 32-20 match rifle<br />
<br />
To be continued...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[It's been a while that I have and shoot a 32-20 match rifle for short-range competition. The idea started out with a philosophy of 'just enough gun' for the purpose while staying in the general framework of BP shooting.  After all, here where I live, most competitions are short-range, due to the limited availability of decent shooting ranges.<br />
That, and also the availability of the small BSA Martini actions, which are restricted in cartridge size due to barrel tenon size and action length.  However, this is a pretty good action, very solid, with a fast lock time and a pretty decent direct trigger.  And I am a Martini fan, of course!<br />
Also, as the base rifle is a .22 match rifle (BSA 12/15), it allows one to have a cheap practice rifle with almost identical ergonomics for cheap and cheerful practice.<br />
<br />
Why 32-20?  Well, it is of course a period-correct cartridge with brass still (more or less) available, and it allows one to use a good selection of both barrels  and moulds.  Yes indeed, if one uses a standard .308 barrel, which is what I did.  Also, it doesn't use gobs of powder and lead (allowing more practice for the same monay), doesn't kick you as hard in a lighter, smaller, better-balanced rifle.<br />
<br />
However, not everything is perfect for match use :  Standard barrel twist for the 32-20 doesn't allow the use of heavy-for-calibre bullets, which IMO is one of the essentials for both a clean burn and good accuracy.  Which is why I went with a 1:12 twist Lothar Walther barrel.  And I did design my own mould, a 151gr RN bullet.<br />
Again, the goal was not to maximize muzzle velocity, but best accuracy at short to mid range.  To be honest, I haven't yet chrono'd my ammo yet, but I'm guesstimating it to be in a .22LR velocity range.  And with the 174gr Pope bullet semi-breechseated, it could well be subsonic.<br />
<br />
Of course, the smaller bore size also has some potential downsides:  fouling being the main element here.  Also, going for a moderate velocity round (subsonic with the heavier bullets) would also be a potential issue, but as its intended use was short range target work, I was hoping this would prove the concept for the distance<br />
<br />
This was the general idea behind the development of a single shot 32-20 match rifle<br />
<br />
To be continued...]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Front sight adjustment.]]></title>
			<link>http://historicshooting.com/thread-3241.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 16 Apr 2022 20:16:11 -0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="http://historicshooting.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=4263">Tgc</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://historicshooting.com/thread-3241.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Gentlemen. I managed to actually go shooting shooting a couple of weeks back. I was shooting my CPA 45 70. The bullet impacts were to the left, 2.375" at 100 yards. The mild breeze was left to right. I had the rear sight at '0' windage. To move the bullet impact to the right, I need to move the front sight to the left. The target distance was 100 yards, or 3600 inches. My sight radius is 33". I divided 3600" ÷33" =109.09. 2.375" ÷109.09=.02177. I moved the front sight .022 to the left. Is my thinking correct? Or will I get a big surprise next time I shoot? Thanks. Tim]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Gentlemen. I managed to actually go shooting shooting a couple of weeks back. I was shooting my CPA 45 70. The bullet impacts were to the left, 2.375" at 100 yards. The mild breeze was left to right. I had the rear sight at '0' windage. To move the bullet impact to the right, I need to move the front sight to the left. The target distance was 100 yards, or 3600 inches. My sight radius is 33". I divided 3600" ÷33" =109.09. 2.375" ÷109.09=.02177. I moved the front sight .022 to the left. Is my thinking correct? Or will I get a big surprise next time I shoot? Thanks. Tim]]></content:encoded>
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