Easy adjustable PP mold making

[Frank Savage]

The tolerances I used are too close. It does not matter on the nosepunch lip, as it can spring. But along the nosepunch shank where the wall is thicker, it has to be about 0,001-0,0012" to be realy safe. If I had this "gap" I may have not ruined the mold-probably may had to clean up the nosepunch surface only. Also, it seems that the dia reduction on the mold body has some relation to total bullet lenght. I´ll have to photo and draw sth to explain this clearly.

Made new mold body-took 2 hours due to biting into tongue to make it just the same dia as the previous while freehand honing and polishing it (well, the machine is quite too small and almost asks for steady rest for the basic 2 3/8" long piece of 1" bar, so I must go gently and slowly). But worth the result, bullet from previous body slides in with very similar speed by its own weight, albeit I was some 0,0001-" off. So had to take this 0,0001" or less from nosepunches I already had. Made them better clearances too.
The brass nosepunch turned out well, bullet just 5 grs shy of the previous steel one at drop-and-go test with no adjustment due to slightly sleeker nose profile. But I hadn´t the paper with X-Y movements I made on the original, as well as I´m not used to turn brass and look into shades on it (read it as "advanced eyeball measurement procedures")-too shiny. Made the tolerances more generous also, except the lip-and man, seems it works wonders. Way better and smoother feel on movement when heating up and finaly hot.
Also I probably stumbled upon something about the "dished" upper surface and semi-floating sprueplate, as I had one of the most enjoyable sessions ever with those about 30 I just finished for test. Perfect and easy filling, no vent problems, perfect square bases, no sprueplate overflows... Will verify the thought and post.