Original paper patched bullet designs?

[Kurt]

Jim since the type writer went obsolete so also went the copy with it.
My choice for paper was always 100% or 75% cockle finish Southworth Paper. It was like a ink blotter, it would let a drop of water blead through and it ran from 7 1/2 pound to 10 pound. The weight did not match the thickness. Some 7 1/2# could be thicker like .0018" and some of the 9# could be .0016" thick but the paper say 9# that would let a drop of water blead through I seldom found the inner wrap with just slice cuts. I really don't see any difference in accuracy with my loads shot were I find large pieces of the wrap compared to the strips. I think the patch from the high speed videos I watched that the air friction as the projectile clears the muzzle is what is tearing the patch appart and with the large pieces is already clear of the projectile with in a foot or two at the most in front of the muzzle.

I have cartridge barrels with shallow grooves of three thousands to six thousands and what steers me away from paper not as thick as the groove is deep with two wraps is the rough lead coated driving edge of the lands is covered with lead especially if I don't use a lube wad or using a lube wad and wiping after every shot that cleans off the lube when wiping. Blow tubing I don't find the lead build up, I really think it's the tin and not so much as lead, but I cant say this for sure.
When I order my mould I order it for the paper I use and I have mentioned this when a question is asked what diameter bullet should I get. I say get the paper then order the mould.


Most of my rifles will shoot to the point of aim with the first shot fired and if I start seeing vertical show up I know that something is wrong with the bore conditions or I have a change with the cases gripping the bullet on release, but it is most likely bore conditions changing.