Importence of the wad stack

[Kurt]

Chris, thank you. I'm glad some pay attention to what I find. But all of the things I find are not cut in stone or lead in this case.
The bullets are never the same even using the same alloys, wads or the amount of powder pushing the bullets down the bore.
You cannot come to the conclusion with just 5 or 10 shots. All one can do is to take the better average and use it. I find that once I find the combination I think is it, it changes.
Chris I mostly in the summer I use Tallow that I render from my winter game I harvest that is hard or Ozokerite wax. This is a wax that has several different levels of melting point temperatures. Also I use a lot of Soy wax. Both waxes are a good carrier of oils. The Soy wax is very good but it tends to be on the brittle side and needs a little other things mixed in besides oil to make it flexable and stay in the grooves if one wants to shoot a greaser. PP lube wads I cut using the case mouth once I have the wad compressed the powder and then it does not matter if the lube wad is flexible.
But if you mainly use a B-Wax for a carrier I temper the lube a little harder using mainly peanut oil and I add some Hydrous Lanolin I get in bulk from down under. I get it in a 10 pound bucket.
With the OZ wax I use the same mix as I do with all the other waxes I just adjust the oil. It's the oil that does the work keeping the fouling under control not the wax. The wax just holds the oil.
But to your question on keeping the oil out of the powder. Use a proper over the powder wad that will not let the oil seep through.
I test mine by taking a few uncompressed powder loads and put them on the seat of my truck and leave the truck sitting in the sun with the windows up. I pull the bullets and start lifting the wads out from under the lube wad and check if any of the powder beneath is clumped together or show signs of having oil soaked in. Even the fiber gasket wads might show oil soaked through but it seldom soaks into the powder. I have found some of the popular over the counter lubes that do get into the powder and clump it up.
A good tight fitting over the powder wad or a plastic wad that needs to be pushed down in the case will stop this lube migration into the powder. Cork also is good and it works great for sealing the case neck and bore for holding gas back and lowers the ES.

Kurt