As i mentioned in an early post I received the Slug Gun and two round ball bench guns for the same gentlemen. the attached photo is the heavy bench 50 cal. Ken Bresien work. This gentlemen kept all his equipment in perfect condition. If any one has any suggestion on the RB gun I'm sure open to them. I need to check the twist, however I think it 1/72
Minke, that is a fine looking slug rifle. Dd you get a scope with it? I am going to try to attach a picture of my swedge. The razor blade set up you mentioned is surely the patch cutter. I will also attach a picture of mine. For a 45 caliber the paper strips should be 2 1/2 to 2 5/8 long. I use Reynolds freezer paper. The plastic coated side goes against the inside of the barrel. The paper will curl as you unroll it from the box, I cut long pieces 2 1/2 inches wide. It will look like a board that has cupped. If you keep this in mind you will always have patches that are cut with the proper grain direction, otherwise they will tear when loading. I use sperm oil to lube the patches, some use minerl oil, some other things. You probably also has a tool in the stuff you got to squeeze out the excess oil from the patches.
You cross the patches and push the bullet down into the false muzzle with your thumb, then remove the washer and push it farther down with the short Starter. Finally you seat the bullet on the powder charge. Don't crush the powder.
JIm, I did receive the scope with the rifle 2" x 20 Ultra Varmint. Also the cutter looks just like yours with the exception of the handle. I plan on picking up some freezer paper to day. I found that you need to place the paper on a poly type backing to make it cut well, do you cut multiple layers? I don't see anything that looks like it would squeeze the oil from the paper, but that should not be a problem. I do have an old bottle of Sperm Oil, when I first started shooting LRML with PP bullets I oiled the patch when I loaded, however experimentation proved that the rifle shot better dry patched.
(01-29-2013, 10:02 AM)MikePifer Wrote: JIm, I did receive the scope with the rifle 2" x 20 Ultra Varmint. Also the cutter looks just like yours with the exception of the handle. I plan on picking up some freezer paper to day. I found that you need to place the paper on a poly type backing to make it cut well, do you cut multiple layers? I don't see anything that looks like it would squeeze the oil from the paper, but that should not be a problem. I do have an old bottle of Sperm Oil, when I first started shooting LRML with PP bullets I oiled the patch when I loaded, however experimentation proved that the rifle shot better dry patched.
Best,Mike
Mike, I cut four sheets at one time and you are right you need a piece of plastic UBS them when cutting. If everything is set up on a non rebounding surface a couple of strikes on the cutter with a wooden mallet does the trick. Jim
Jim,
Picked up a roll of Reynolds Frezzer paper today, Certainly that one roll would last a life time for every Slug Gun shooter in the Country. It worked just as you said, I did cut 4 sheets at a time, no problem.
Sure are a lot of people looking at Slug guns but not much talking. I have a question. The two piece cast bullet dies that I received with my rifle need some help. They just don't make perfect bullets, not good alinement between base and nose. I want to have a swaged two piece bullet with the base being much harder than the nose. I do have a Corbin swaging press. A couple of weeks ago I sent a sample of the bullet I would like and request to Richard Corbin, to date no response. Don't know if he is not interested or just does not want to be bothered. Any way what is the general opinion on a swaged bullet and making them with the hard/ soft.
I have not shot my rifle yet Way to much snow here in CT, but I see no reason not to obtain the best bullet I can. Any suggestions?
(02-09-2013, 05:59 PM)MikePifer Wrote: Sure are a lot of people looking at Slug guns but not much talking. I have a question. The two piece cast bullet dies that I received with my rifle need some help. They just don't make perfect bullets, not good alinement between base and nose. I want to have a swaged two piece bullet with the base being much harder than the nose. I do have a Corbin swaging press. A couple of weeks ago I sent a sample of the bullet I would like and request to Richard Corbin, to date no response. Don't know if he is not interested or just does not want to be bothered. Any way what is the general opinion on a swaged bullet and making them with the hard/ soft.
I have not shot my rifle yet Way to much snow here in CT, but I see no reason not to obtain the best bullet I can. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Mike Pifer
Mike, For slugun gun you want as pure soft lead basse and a hard(er) nose. The soft lead base allows good expansion of the base to fill the grooves and avoid gas escaping. Forthe nose I use 4 pounds of wheel wieght metal to 1 pound of soft lead. The bullet cpmponents do not have to be perfect as the swedging together ofthe two parts clears up some cosmetic errors. However, I do weigh the bases and the noses before putting them together, tossing out those that are way out of range. The hammer swedge that you got with the rifle shold takae care of this for you. I poured a ten pound peice of lead from scrap to set the swedge on drilling a hole in it for the pin. This gives a very stable base to work on. jim
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